Senin, 28 Mei 2012

Batik Designs with Solo Style

Solo (it is also called Soerakarta) is located in located in Central Java and located 65 km (40 miles) northeast of Yogyakarta. The city population is approximately 500,000 people. Solo’s main source of income is from textiles, and Solo has the biggest batik market on Java. In batik production, Solo is well known as sogan(brown) colorizing.

Kraton (or court) is not only the residence of the kings, but also the seat of government, religion and culture.this reflected in the arts, especially in her batik: the motifs and colors, and special rules governing the wearing batik. In the solo there are special rules about wearing batik. It has to do with socio-position of the wearer. With respect to the meaning and the hope or wish is symbolized by the motif.
Solo design motif of the culture associated with the Hindu-Javanese: Sawat symbol of the crown or the supreme power, Meru mountain or the earth symbol, a symbol of the water dragon, symbol of the wind or the birds of the world and a symbol of fire flames.
Some traditional motifs imposed on certain occasions:
When making a proposal of marriage, wali (male relative she), wore batik Satria Manah, who showed that when a knight or knights, shoot with bow and arrow, the arrow will be sure to hit the target, which means, of course that the proposal will be accepted. her family accepted the proposal wear batik with motif Cement Chain.
Chain, which means the chain symbolizes the close ties and binding in accordance with the beliefs of people who violate the Asia-off ties will damage the good name of the woman.
- The opportunity where batik worn or used, in connection with meaning and hope or wish is symbolized by the motif.

Great Solo Batik Design






Batik Designs with Yogyakarta Style

Yogyakarta is a city located in south-central Java, within the Yogyakarta province. Yogyakarta city is known as a center of classical Javanese fine art and culture such as batik, music, and puppet shows. It is also famous as a center for Indonesian higher education. Yogyakarta the capital city of the most powerful and respected Kingdom of Java, is also at the heart of the Batik art.




All the old Traditions and customs are observed, as well as in Solo, and one can still find many symbols that are related to Hindu-Javanese culture. The combination of motifs in Yogya batik is unique, and there is a tendency to combine a number of large geometric motifs.
Motif is a typical design Grompol Yogya used for wedding ceremonies. Grompol, which means that together symbolize the coming together of all things goods, such as a harmonious married life, happiness, children, and luck.


The Nitik motif is found in great numbers in this area. During a colonial annual fair (Jaarbeurs) during the Dutch period, a batik producer gave the name Nitik Jaarbeurs to a motif which received an award.





Kamis, 24 Mei 2012

Range of kinds of Batik Java





Javanese Batik

What is Batik ?

Batik is a method of decorating fabric using hot wax and dye. The hot wax is drawn or painted on to the fabric on the areas which are required to resist any further dye being absorbed. The fabric can be further embellished whilst the waxed areas will remain untouched. The word 'Batik' originates from Indonesia and is closely linked with the Malay word 'titik' which means to dot or point and the word 'amba' which, in Javanese, means to write. This method of fabric decoration has been found in many areas of the world but it's origins are believed to be in India, Sri Lank, China, Southeast Asia, West Africa, Japan and Turkestan.

"Batik" is Javanese for "wax writing". To batik, one starts with white or light colored natural fabric (cotton, rayon, silk), roughs in the design one wants then paints it on with hot wax. Once the wax dries, the fabric is dipped in or painted with cold-water dye. The waxed areas repel the dye; thus the term "resist process." After the cloth is dyed, the wax is removed and voila, the batik pattern appears on both sides of the fabric, with crackly lines running through the design, characteristic of batik, where the dye has leaked through the wax. The fabric can be crunched up after the wax has been applied but before dyeing, to ensure that this crackling effect is achieved.

The art of batik may have originated in Asia and then spread through Asia and the Near East. Whatever its origin, it was a highly accomplished art form in Java and Bali by the thirteenth century, producing fabrics that only the royal family and aristocracy were allowed to wear.

Today most batik, including that imported from the Far East, is done by machine. Our batik is hand crafted, so no two pieces are exactly alike. Occasionally you may see little flecks or mottling of the dye on the fabric. These are not flaws, but are a function of the hand-waxing and dying process and the way cold-water dyes release on different materials. They are part of what makes our batik distinct.

Batik Design Tools

 Although the art form of batik is very intricate, the tools that are used are still very simple. The canting, believed to be a purely Javanese invention, is a small thin wall spouted copper container (sometimes called a wax pen) that is connected to a short bamboo handle. Normally it is approximately 11 cm. in length. The copper container is filled with melted wax and the artisan then uses the canting to draw the design on the cloth.

Canting have different sizes of spouts (numbered to correspond to the size) to achieve varied design effects. The spout can vary from 1 mm in diameter for very fine detailed work to wider spouts used to fill in large design areas. Dots and parallel lines may be drawn with canting that have up to 9 spouts. Sometimes a wad of cotton is fastened over the mouth of the canting or attached to a stick that acts as a brush to fill in very large areas.

Wajan

Wajan is used to melt the waxThe wajan is the container that holds the melted wax. It looks like a small wok. Normally it is made of iron or earthenware. The wajan is placed on a small brick charcoal stove or a spirit burner called an 'anglo'. The wax is kept in a melted state while the artisan is applying the wax to the cloth.

Wax
Different kinds and qualities of wax are used in batik. Common waxes used for batik consist of a mixture of beeswax, used for its malleability, and paraffin, used for its friability. Resins can be added to increase adhesiveness and animal fats create greater liquidity.
The best waxes are from the Indonesian islands of Timor, Sumbawa and Sumatra; three types of petroleum-based paraffin (white, yellow and black) are used. The amounts mixed are measured in grams and vary according to the design. Wax recipes can be very closely guarded secrets. Varying colors of wax make it possible to disguise different parts of the pattern through the various dying stages. Larger areas of the pattern are filled in with wax that is cheaper quality and the higher quality wax is used on the more intricately detailed sections of the design.

The wax must be kept at the proper temperature. A wax that is too cool will clog the spout of the canting. A wax that is too hot will flow too quickly and be uncontrollable. The artisan will often blow into the spout of the canting before applying wax to the cloth in order to clear the canting of any obstructions.

Cap
Creating batik is a very time consuming craft. To meet growing demands and make the fabric more affordable to the masses, in the mid-19th century the . cap. (copper stamp - pronounced chop) was developed. This invention enabled a higher volume of batik production compared to the traditional method which entailed the tedious application of wax by hand with a canting.

Each cap is a copper block that makes up a design unit. Cap are made of 1.5 cm wide copper stripes that are bent into the shape of the design. Smaller pieces of wire are used for the dots. When complete, the pattern of copper strips is attached to the handle.

The cap must be precisely made. This is especially true if the pattern is to be stamped on both sides of the fabric. It is imperative that both sides of the cap are identical so that pattern will be consistent.
Sometimes cap are welded between two grids like pieces of copper that will make a base for the top and the Applying wax with cap bottom. The block is cut in half at the center so the pattern on each half is identical. Cap vary in size and shape depending on the pattern they are needed for. It is seldom that a cap will exceed 24 cm in diameter, as this would make the handling too difficult.

Men usually handle the application of wax using cap. A piece of cloth that involves a complicated design could require as many as ten sets of cap. The usage of cap, as opposed to canting, to apply the wax has reduced the amount of time to make a cloth.

Today, batik quality is defined by cap or tulis, the second meaning hand-drawn designs which use a canting, or kombinasi, a combination of the two techniques.
Traditional colors for Central Javanese batik were made from natural ingredients and consisted primarily of beige, blue, brown and black.

The oldest color that was used in traditional batik making was blue. The color was made from the leaves of the Indigo plant. The leaves were mixed with molasses sugar and lime and left to stand overnight. Sometimes sap from the Tinggi tree was added to act as a fixing agent. Lighter blue was achieved by leaving the cloth in the dye bath for short periods of time. For darker colors, the cloth would be left in the dye bath for days and may have been submerged up to 8 - 10 times a day.

In traditional batik, the second color applied was a brown color called soga. The color could range from light yellow to a dark brown. The dye came from the bark of the Soga tree. Another color that was traditionally used was a dark red color called mengkuda. This dye was created from the leaves of the Morinda Citrifolia.

The final hue depended on how long the cloth was soaked in the dye bath and how often it was dipped. Skilled artisans can create many variations of these traditional colors. Aside from blue, green would be achieved by mixing blue with yellow; purple was obtained by mixing blue and red. The soga brown color mixed with indigo would produce a dark blue-black color.



Javanese Batik

Batik is one of Java's famous and highly developed art traditions, together with wayang (shadow puppets), gamelan (Javanese orchestra) and keris (the dagger - heirloom).

Anywhere, batik designed materials are clearly seen as women traditional dresses, shirts, uniforms, sarongs, bags, hats, table-cloths, napkins, painting and decorative items, etc, with traditional color of brown, indigo and blue or more colorful ones.

Nowadays, batik is an important industry in many production centers in Java. It is a proof that the people of Java do love the products, long time ago created by their ancestors.

Batik Yogyakarta
Yogyakarta Batik is part of the historical development in Central Java batik which has undergone a mix several shades of other regions.
Travel "Yogya Batik" can not escape from the agreement Giyanti 1755. Once Mataram split in two, and Kraton Ngayogyakarta stands, clothing transported from Surakarta Mataram to the Sri Susuhunan Ngayogyakarta Pakubuwono II designing new clothing and custom clothing with a fashion different from Surakarta Kraton Yogyakarta.
All heritage and palace objects are also divided by two. Clothing Mataraman taken to Yogyakarta, because Kangjeng Prince Mangkubumi who wishes to preserve it. Therefore, under the rule of Sri Paduka Surakarta Susuhunan PB III designing new fashion and managed to make Traditional Clothing Surakarta royal palace as we see today.

Characteristic of batik style of Yogyakarta, there are two kinds of background or base color fabric. White and Black. While color can be white batik (cloth color), dark blue-black and brown Soga. Sered or suburban fabric, white, sought not to break so conceded soga, both black and white fabric background. The first decoration was geometric: slash lerek or slopes, the lines cross or fried and kawung, as well as matting and limaran.Decoration that is both non-geometric cement, lung-lungan and boketan.

Symbolic ornamentation that is closely associated with Hindu philosophy - Java (Mrs.Nian S Jumena), among others: Sawat Symbolize or ruler high crown, symbolizing the mountain Meru or ground (earth), the Dragon symbolizes water, the bird symbolizes the wind or the world above, the flame symbolizes the flame or geni. Dilarangan batik motifs: Parang damaged (damaged barong machetes, machetes damaged gendreh)